Ryutaro . tv
2007年10月13日
north shore / sunset beach
at NorthShore/SunsetBeach
サーフィンのメッカ、オアフ島の北にあるノースショアに車を走らせていて、
色々問い合わせていくと、uncle bryanという人に、サーフィンを教えてもらえることになった。
彼は数々の名サーフィンプレーヤー・チャンピオンを教えてきた、
地元でも有名なトレーナーだそうだ。
顔は、バレンタイン監督かどこかのハリウッド俳優に似ているおじいちゃん。
もう時間は夕方にさしかかっていたんだけれど、サンセットビーチで、
海の上におなかを滑らせながら、夕日が照らす水平線に向かって進んでいく。
思ったより、立てるし、波に乗れる。
uncle bryanと波を待ちながら、ぷかぷか浮きながら話をしていて、
サーフィンのことにも、人生的なことにも、しきりに
"take your time"と言っていたのが心に残りました。
[ ]
投稿者 ryutaro : 2007年10月13日 07:43
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